Bill Of Materials -Printed Body -Printed Servo Arm -Printed Sensor Mount -(2) Printed Wheel Halves -Arduino UNO -UNO Motor shield (I use the L298P with buzzer, Ping and servo inputs) -Two "Smart Car" Gearmotors and wheels -Two 3AA Battery holders -SG-90 9g Micro servo set -HC-SR04 Ultrasonic sensor -200mm female/female 4 pin cable -High Amperage toggle switch (15A or better still looking for a good source can skip and take a battery out to shut the power off I burnt through a few 5A switches already :() -(4) 25mm sections of wire for motors -(2) F623 bearings (wheel) -(4) M3x25mm socket capscrew (motors) -(1) M3x15mm socket capscrew (neck) -(1) M3x20mm socket capscrew (wheel) -(4) M3x8mm flat head socket capscrew --(batteries) -(4) M3x6mm socket capscrew (UNO) -(6) M3 washers (wheel) -(10) M3 nylon locking nuts -several small rubber bands optional: (3) 12mm long M3 coupler nuts to make internal assembly easier (replaces 6 m3 locking nuts, (4) 12mm (6mm threaded) m3 standoff nuts for the arduino board to give it a more professional look Tools Needed: -2mm allen key -2.5mm allen key -2-3mm phillips screwdriver -2-3mm slotted screwdriver -5.5mm wrench -small needle nose plies -tweezers (ESD-15 if possible) -Soldering iron with smal tip and solder -small drill -1.5mm or 1/6" drill bit -3mm or 1/8" drill bit -drill bit for chosen toggle switch Building tips: After printing the body drill out all holes with a 3mm drill bit except for the UNO mounting holes. On my prints the M3x6mm bolts self threaded in to the plastic itself. If this doesn't work, use 8mm bolts and nylon locking nuts instead. The wheels need 3 washers or 2mm spacers on either side to allow for clearance from the lock nuts that hold the battery box on. If there is not enough clearance you can use a regular M3 nuts for the battery box or add more washers between the wheel and the body. Code: the sample code included is a quick working code, however I am no master at C++ nor Arduino so please use it as an example only.